Create your own Super Bright LED sneakers that blink with multiple patterns.
– 1 color LEDs
– 6 patterns
– reed sensors + magnets that give you control to step through patterns
– detachable velcro design
– small, wearable microcontroller + power
Step 1: Parts & Tools
Super Bright LEDs (35 or more per sneaker, depending on shoe size)
120 Ohm resistors (1 or every LED, ohm-age flexible)
Sticky Back Velcro
2 RBBB (Really Bare Bones Board Arduino)
2 Slde switches
24 gauge bare wire
2 Reed Sensors
2 6V (medical) batteries
2 AA plastic battery holders
Servo wire & connectors
2 Neodymium magnets
2 iPod nano arm bands
Spare piece of plastic (approx 1″x1″)
Awl, pin, or something to poke a hole with
Soldering station (iron & solder)
5 minute Epoxy
Mini hand saw
Step 2: Make Strips
Measure the circumference of your sneaker. Add 6 inches to that figure and cut two strips of Sticky Back Velcro to length. Put aside the “loop” side of the velcro for now.
Cover with electrical tape
Cover the sticky side of the “fuzzy” velcro strip with electrical tape. Remove the backing from the fuzzy piece of velcro (it’s very sticky!). Carefully attach electrical tape (sticky side to sticky side) to the velcro. This is going to be the exterior backing for the LEDs so make it look smooth. Do it slowly so you don’t make any wrinkles. I used long strips and overlapped them to cover the entire area. Trim off any excess with a scissors.
Step 3: Measure & Poke Holes
Take your poker (pin, awl, etc.) and poke two small holes on each side of each mark. This is where you will thread your LED through later on. Make the holes about 3/16″ apart.
I used the pointy side of a circle cutter to make the holes and then later re-poked them with a pin to make the holes bigger. You probably have a better tool than mine to get this done easily.
Step 4: Insert LEDs
Before inserting…check each LED to make sure it’s working! I quickly checked mine with my breadboard + Arduino.
My LEDs came from Ebay. You can get packs of 100 super bright LEDs for a few bucks. My sneakers each needed 35 LEDs, so 1 pack was plenty for one pair of sneaks.
Poke each LED through the holes you just made. I chose to orient them so that the negative (shorter lead) was on the top when holding the velcro strip vertical. Insert enough LEDs to wrap around the entire shoe (remember you have some extra velcro on the end).
Once all the LEDs are in, bend the negative leads to the left, flat against the fuzzy stuff.
Step 5: Solder Ground
Step 6: Insert and Solder Resistors to LEDs
I bought a pack of (100) 120 Ohm, 1/8W resistors on Ebay for a few bucks. I devised a way to attach the resistor to each LED to save space and keep it in place. You can experiment with what works for you, but I ended up tucking the resistor underneath the positive lead of the LED (see photo).
Use pliers to bend each resistor to the shape in the photo. Bend the positive lead of the LED so that it creates a space for the resistor to fit underneath. If you make it snug, it will pinch the resistor a little so that it stays in place.
Insert & Solder
I found it helpful to insert a few resistors, then solder them in place. Even if you bend everything perfectly, it’s hard to work with the resistors poking out the side.
Solder the positive lead of each LED to its corresponding resistor. Clip the excess when finished.
Step 7: Solder Pin Connection
Clip the excess.
Step 8: Check and Test
Look over your solder joints carefully. Fix any that look weak or disconnected. Some solder may have leaked onto the fuzz (you can pick it off if you want), just make sure you haven’t created any unwanted connections.
Plug the strip into a breadboard to test the LEDs. I used a spare Arduino with a simple Blink sketch. With the extra wire on the end, it’s easy to plug these into GND and a PWM pin.
If you have an LED that isn’t working, look over your connections. Check for bad solder joints. If everything looks fine you may need to replace the LED. It’s not a big deal. Clip the leads and insert a fresh one. Re-solder all connections, check and test until all LEDs are working.
Step 9: Attach Velcro to Sneaker
It’s probably a good idea to make sure the sneaker is clean so that the velcro sticks!
Step 10: The RBBB Arduino
Step 11: Modify Battery Holder
Cut & Sand
With a small hand saw cut the middle out of the AA battery holder – about 1/3 from each end. Chuck the middle piece and sand down the seams of the other pieces. You will be putting these ends together. Measure and use common sense so that you don’t make it too small or too big. Check often against your battery.
Epoxy these two pieces together. I used a spare chunk of thin plastic to help secure it. Epoxy the two halves onto the plastic base. Repeat for the 2nd battery holder.
Step 12: Install the Power Switch
Insert a slide switch into the wiring on your battery holder. I inserted mine on the black lead. Solder the red and black leads to the RBBB on the back of the PCB, just above the two fat capacitors that are on the other side.
Flip the switch and make sure the green LED lights up on the RBBB. Use an FTDI cable to upload a simple sketch to test out the board. Don’t forget to remove the battery if you are using USB power.
Upload the sketch
Once you’re done testing, upload the SuperBriteLEDSneaker1_0 sketch to your RBBB.
Step 13: Attach Your LED Strip
Step 14: Install the Reed Sensors
I got two Reed Sensors on Ebay. A magnet will activate the switch up to 3cm away. The plan is to install one at the toe end of one sneaker and the other at the heel end (with corresponding magnets to trigger them). So each sneaker has one Reed Sensor and one magnet.
On my left sneaker I installed the Reed Sensor at the inside, toe end (about 4 inches from the shoe tip). Your Reed Sensor may have come with wiring attached (great!). Solder a wire from GND on the RS to the ground wire on your LED strip. (Modify the length as needed for the GND connection.) You can pull off part or all of the LED strip in order to do the soldering.
Thread the other two wires from the RS (for PIN and 5V) through your shoe laces. These wires will terminate at a place near your ankle once the other hardware is complete, so for now just make sure there is enough wire to reach with a bit to spare.
Similar procedure for the right sneaker, but place the Reed Sensor near the inside, heel end.
At this point it might be helpful to put a small square of velcro to secure the Reed Sensors in place.
Step 15: The Circuit
LEDs go to PWM Pin 9 (D9) and GND. Reed Sensor goes to 5V and Pin 2 (D2).
Step 16: Servo Wire & Making Connections
Once I cut the wire to length and crimped the connectors, I trimmed off the excess wire from the LED strips and soldered the servo wire to it at the back/heel end of the sneaker. The idea is to make the LED strip one component that will plug into a connector that is attached to the RBBB. Same idea for the Reed Sensors.
Solder two sets of wires to the RBBB:
PIN 9 & GND
PIN 2 & 5V
Plug in the LED strip and Reed Sensors to the corresponding connectors.
Step 17: Test the Sketch
Upload the SuperBriteLEDSneaker1_0 sketch to your RBBB Arduino if you haven’t already done so. Power up the RBBB. The LEDs should light and begin fading up and down.
Grab a magnet and bring it close to the Reed Sensor. The pattern of LEDs will change to a slow blink. Remember to pull the magnet away unless you want the programs to change quickly.
Here is the default set of patterns:
0 – Fade
1 – Slow Blink
2 – Med Blink
3 – Fast Blink *
4 – All on
5 – All off
You can program your own patterns as you desire. Notice that the Reed Switch is connected to an Interrupt pin.
Step 18: Install the Magnets
The magnets I used are cylindrical and axially oriented, so they work best when the round side is brought close to the Reed Sensor. I used electrical tape to make a little sling that I wrapped around the magnet and attached to the velcro. Make sure that the magnets are secure.
Step 19: Finalize and Test
Arm Band for your Ankle
Put on the iPod Nano arm band (on your ankle) and see how it fits. I trimmed the straps and added velcro for a custom fit.
Fire ’em up
Connect up all components to the RBBB and insert it into the pouch. Power both units up. You will see the fade up/down pattern. Start getting a feel for how to change programs by bringing your feel close together. Make sure to align each magnet with each Reed Sensor. It may take a little practice to learn how to change programs. Make adjustments to the magnets and/or Reed Sensor locations as needed.
Because these are super bright LEDs, these babies look incredible in the dark and are especially eye-catching outside at night. With the modular design, you can use them on more than one pair of sneakers (just attach more loop velcro to your other sneakers) or for other wearable projects. Have fun!